Five Things I Learned From The First Ever UK Best Fake Rolex-Authorized Submariner Book

Not just another fancy coffee table book, Oyster Perpetual Submariner—The Watch That Unlocked The Deep by Nicholas Foulkes is the most revealing look inside the Rolex archives—ever. I’ll admit that when I first heard about the book, my cynicism got the better of me. Luxury Rolex replica watches, the global flagship of Swiss watchmaking, never reveals its secrets. Why would the company notorious for safeguarding archival information suddenly decide to make it available for public consumption?

Well, the informational waters are no longer so murky. In one fell swoop, Rolex corrects, confirms, and adds to the scholarship surrounding vintage Submariners. Most significantly (and as already “reported” in the vintage Rolex IG community) the production estimates of each Rolex Submariner reference ever made are included in the book’s index. This is a 180° move from Rolex, a brand that typically says nothing to confirm or deny its vintage product, but it’s just the tip of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner iceberg.

Rolex Submariner book

Previous scholarship was long fought for in the trenches of vintage collecting, compiling data from known original UK AAA Rolex fake watches, adding in old stories handed down from Rolex savants of years past, and employing a mix of common sense and conjecture to arrive at conclusions that could only be presented with qualifiers such as “as far as the collecting community knows…”.

With concrete information on Submariners sealed and approved by the Crown comes the promise of more authorized books on Rolex models (and their secrets). This book is the first in a series published by Wallpaper* in partnership with Rolex, all penned by Foulkes. The official Submariner book is 252 pages long, and while I would never give all the secrets away in one article, here are five things that Hodinkee’s resident “vintage guy” learned while flipping through it.

  1. The Submariner was born from the Explorer

In our Reference Points: Understanding The high quality Rolex Submariner replica watches, a whole section is dedicated to “The Genesis Of The Submariner.” This idea of the Submariner, Explorer, and Turn-O-Graph hitting the market as a trio in May of 1954 was always a part of the “accepted” story. This is not to criticize or debunk a previous article, but more to show what we once thought was correct in the watch community.

    The very first chapter of perfect Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner copy watches cites numerous primary accounts via the Rolex Archive to tell a wholly different story. According to the book, the Submariner was developed from the ref. 6150 Explorer. A series of letters between Rolex director René-Paul Jeanneret and the Rolex London office detail a story of specific requests from and tests by British Royal Navy divers beginning in 1952. A Rolex shipping form dated September 1953 notes early examples of the ref. 6150 being delivered to the Royal Navy.

      With feedback from divers, in 1954, Rolex London described a special version of the ref. 6150 “manufactured in collaboration with the Admiralty,” having a larger dial diameter (check) and a rotating bezel (double check). And so (according to the book), the Submariner was born.

      1. Pièce Rebikoff, Nautilus, Frogman, and Sub-Aqua – The Many Names Of The Rolex Submariner

      The Submariner, or simply “Sub,” is so ubiquitous today that we don’t ever stop to think how a seemingly unnatural word found its way onto a Rolex dial. We’re talking about the same company with enough imagination to dream up model names like Datejust for a watch with just a date complication and Day-Date for a watch with a day and date complication.

      According to Foulkes and Swiss made Rolex replica watches, the project that would come to be known as the Submariner tried on various names while in development and even hit a post-launch hiccup in the US. Hans Wilsdorf is quoted in the book as saying, “I like the name Deep Sea Special better than Frogman” and even shares an idea that, in hindsight, would have really changed watch-world history: Wilsdorf states, “I am sure that Nautilus is already registered.”

        Concurrent with the British Royal Navy tests, Rolex also contracted the assistance of Dimitri Rebikoff, a pioneer in underwater photography and the burgeoning sport of scuba diving. Rebikoff’s influence on the Submariner project was so great that internally, the 1:1 fake Rolex watches UK was referred to as “pièce Rebikoff.” Ultimately, in a Rolex technical meeting on May 28th, 1953, Jean Huguenin is credited with deciding that “this piece will carry the name: ‘SUBMARINER.'”

        Even after the Submariner hit the market, the name was still in question. The book details an intellectual property rights issue in the US, resulting in the use of Sub-Aqua for a very short period. This explains once and for all the very rare, early variant of the Submariner with Sub-Aqua in place of Submariner on the dial!

        1. We Can Thank Dimitri Rebikoff For The Death Of The Red Triangle Bezel

        A couple of quick nuggets I gleaned before moving into the big news. I mentioned Dimitri Rebikoff above, but the book has a ton of great information about him and his relationship with Rolex – he was truly instrumental in making the Rolex Submariner super clone watches online look like it does today. For example, in April of 1953, he specifically called out the impracticality of the red triangle at 12 o’clock on the bezel, saying it “will probably already become invisible below 10 meters… it would be better to replace it with a white triangle.”

        “We are currently studying modifying the bezel so as to make the triangle snow white rather than red,” responded René-Paul Jeanneret. And, in relatively short order, the red triangle was no more.

        1. Turn-O-Graph – The Forgotten Child Meant To Be The Big Hit At Basel

        Even after all of this Royal Navy and scuba diving pioneer development, the retail market hopes for the Swiss movements replica Rolex Submariner watches were low. According to the book, the Submariner was originally thought to be a niche, professional product. But it was the development of a rotating bezel that was to be the commercial saving grace. As such, the Turn-O-Graph was developed to launch in tandem with the Submariner, focused solely on the rotating bezel. It was to be “the watch with a thousand and one uses.” Rolex put the full might of its 1954 Basel Fair production behind the Turn-O-Graph. Ultimately, the Submariner won out.

        I can say from experience in the vintage market that very few Turn-O-Graphs were sold then and even with that rarity today, it is a difficult watch to sell to even the most discerning vintage Rolex collector. The Submariner took off and the Turn-O-Graph was left, largely forgotten, somewhere near the starting line.

        1. Production ‘Estimates’ For Each Submariner Reference

        This back-of-book addition has been the “talk of the vintage Rolex town” since early copies of the book landed. It’s hard to stress just how un-Rolex the inclusion of these numbers is, but I am sure most Hodinkee readers know by now. Listing out all the production numbers here feels a bit unfair to Wallpaper*, Foulkes, and all the people who worked hard to create the book, but I will call out a couple of “key learnings,” how about that? Important to note off the top, the fine print states that “production quantities are estimates based on figures from the Rolex Archives,” but, as we’ll see, the numbers feel pretty exact.

          Firstly, the vintage Rolex community is pretty damn good at guessing. For years, it has been widely accepted that around top wholesale replica Rolex 300 ref. 6200 “King Subs” watches were produced. This number is often quoted because the reference was long thought to be one of the “rarest.” Turns out, we were right. The book confirms that an “estimated” 303 examples were produced (you see, the estimate looks pretty spot on, 303, not 300), and that is the lowest production of any reference.

          Also interesting is the split between ref. 5513s and ref. 5512s. These two were sister references for most of their production, with the distinction between them being a chronometer-certified movement in the 5512 and a non-chronometer-certified caliber in the 5513. I know I am oversimplifying here a bit (don’t @ me, Vintage Rolex Police). Anyway, outside of that movement difference, the two are essentially the same best quality UK Rolex copy watches. Yet, the total production of the 5513 is estimated at 151,449 versus 17,338 for the 5512. In today’s vintage market, 5512s have always carried a slight premium over 5513s but not a nearly nine times rarer premium.

          4 Most Affordable AAA Swiss Fake Rolex Watches UK For Men, Priced Between Rs 5.57 lakh And Rs 7.10 lakh

          Want to enter the coveted Rolex club but are afraid that they’re out of your budget? To be fair, Rolex isn’t known for manufacturing any watch that can qualify as “cheap” or “affordable” in any part of the world. That makes hunting a new and (relatively) affordable Rolex a fairly challenging proposition. Although there are plenty of reasonably priced, pre-owned Swiss made Rolex replica watches of genuine provenance, finding one at retail value, which isn’t subject to huge markups and waiting lists, is tricky. Here are four series of 1:1 UK Rolex fake watches made by Rolex that can be picked up on your first visit to an authorised dealership, at a relatively affordable price.

          Rolex Air King Replica Watches

          Created in 1945 to celebrate the accomplishments of Britain’s Royal Air Force, the perfect fake Rolex Air King watches has retained its core essence through the years and emerged as one of the most iconic pilot’s watches. Among its design signatures are its black dial, with bold white Arabic numerals, an inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock mark (a feature all great pilot’s watches possess), and its 40mm Oystersteel case and bracelet. The latest cheap Rolex copy watches also gets a Superlative Chronometer Caliber 3230 with an antimagnetic escapement, a 70 hour power reserve and greater shock resistance.

          Price: Rs 6.47 lakh

          Rolex Datejust Fake Watches

          The Datejust is one of Rolex’s most storied watches. Created to commemorate the brand’s 40th anniversary in 1945, it is arguably one of the most recognizable high quality Rolex replica watches in the market, thanks to its iconic fluted bezel (although the Oystersteel model features a plain steel bezel). Thanks to the bezel and the cyclops lens (its other design trademark) the Swiss movements replica Rolex Datejust watches manages to look more distinct than a simple Oyster Perpetual. It is available in a very wide array of shapes and sizes, starting from a 28mm Lady Datejust and going all the way to 41mm. It also features a mix of white and yellow gold, along with variants that have diamond-studded dials and bezels – but those cost a fair bit more.

          Price: Rs 7.10 lakh

          Replica Rolex Oyster Perpetual Watches

          The most affordable Rolex is the basic, three-hand top Rolex Oyster Perpetual replica watches. It’s not a chronograph, it doesn’t feature a rotating bezel, and it doesn’t even come with a date window. What you are paying for is Rolex’s patented automatic movement, its precision and its reliability. This is the consecrated essence of what a Rolex is all about: iconic, recognisable, clean, and elegant. Featuring a sunray or lacquered dial and available in a variety of sizes ranging from 31mm to 41mm, it’s made of the corrosion-resistant proprietary version of stainless steel that Rolex calls “Oystersteel”.

          Price: Rs 5.57 lakh

          Fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer Watches

          In many ways, the best Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer replica watches is similar to the entry-level Oyster Perpetual. It features no date window, no other major complication in sight. Instead, it gets a distinctive black dial with 3,6 and 9 numerals featuring a Chromalight display that has a distinct blue glow when shrouded in the dark. But despite its similarities, the Explorer name commands a slight premium over the standard Oyster Perpetual because it was the luxury Rolex super clone watches worn by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay when they scaled Everest in 1953. More accurately, it was the pre-Explorer version, with the commercial model being introduced around the 80s.

          Price: Rs 6.65 lakh

          My Swiss Top 5 Replica Rolex Watches UK

          Opinions on AAA UK Rolex replica watches vary widely; some adore the brand, while others find the reigning monarch of Swiss watchmaking boring. But it’s hard not to admire this massive watch manufacturer to some extent, regardless of personal preferences.

          Rolex is in a league of its own, and has been for decades. There are some household names from the brand, but it’s not always the typical run-of-the-mill models that appear in my search results on Chrono24. It’s often the older models or perfectly imperfect ones (i.e., wabi-sabi) that pique my interest.

          Here are five of my top 1:1 Rolex fake watches from a recent search on the marketplace.

          Replica Rolex Daytona Le Mans Watches

          If you listen to Hodinkee founder Benjamin Clymer talk about the white gold cheap fake Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” watches in the April 2nd episode of “A Week on the Wrist,” you’ll soon learn how important he finds this model.

          When the watch came out in 2023, in celebration of the 100th anniversary of the legendary French 24-hour race, it not only took everybody by surprise, but it also reminded Mr. Clymer of an old advertisement in a car magazine from 1964 (the year after the first Rolex Cosmograph was launched), when the Rolex Daytona was known as – you guessed it – the Le Mans.

          To most people, it just looks like a steel Daytona, but not only does its weight of 200 g reveal the precious metal used, but so does the display case back, which we also saw on the platinum version of the Daytona that was presented at Watches and Wonders 2023.

          In marking the centennial of Le Mans, Rolex decided to highlight “100” on the tachymeter bezel in red and add a 24-hour chronograph counter, which also explains why the high quality Rolex copy watches is powered by the caliber 4132 instead of the 4131 found in Daytonas from 2023.

          This is a watch for the few. I’m fully aware of that. It’s not only a Daytona – which is hard to acquire anyway – but an anniversary Daytona in precious metal that, according to my sources, has not only been produced in a limited number, but also only offered to a select group of clients. And from what I understand, these clients share a profound passion for high-speed automobiles and iconic racing events.

          The rarity of the Daytona Le Mans explains why this Rolex replica watches for men, which had a price of $52,000 at an authorized Rolex retailer before the discontinuation this year, is offered on Chrono24 at five-six times the original retail price. Let’s see where the new yellow gold version of this rare timepiece will start, once it comes to market.

          Fake Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 Watches

          Speaking of Daytonas, my favorite from this racing-inspired line is the Zenith-powered version launched in 1988. It was the first automatic Daytona from Rolex, the first Daytona with a white dial, and the first Rolex to have a waiting list. Rolex spent two years working on it, fitting it with the high-frequency Zenith El Primero chronograph movement with a reduced 28,800 vph. It finally launched with what Rolex dubbed the caliber 4030, i.e., an El Primero movement with some 200 modifications made to it, ensuring the quality Rolex was and is known for.

          One of the charms of this five-digit Daytona ref. is the slim case profile compared to the somewhat more bulky modern ref. 126500 from 2023. This, of course, adds to its wearability. But the steel bezel is also a personal highlight for me. Cerachrom is a great invention if the Swiss made replica Rolex watches owner doesn’t like wear and tear, but I’m not sensitive to scratches and dings and appreciate the look of a timepiece that gets good use.

          I own an excellent example of the five-digit Daytona: a black dial version with subdials that have aged well, giving them a beautiful chocolate brown tint known as “Patrizzi.” That small but obvious detail adds to the charm of this already highly coveted perfect Rolex super clone watches. Since Rolex is known for perfection, any deviation makes a watch all the more attractive to collectors.

          Rolex Submariner 5512 Tropical Dial Replica Watches

          A lot of people consider a Rolex to be the perfect watch. However, perfection can also have a boring side, especially when we’re talking about timepieces; “perfection” is rarely synonymous with “creative” or “colorful.” This is part of the reason why Swiss movements Rolex fake watches with a tropical dial are so fascinating – at least to collectors of Rolex sports watches.

          The dials in question were originally black when the Submariner, Explorer, and Sea-Dweller models were produced in the 1960s–1970s. However, due to poor production quality and the effects of humidity, many of these early dials turned from black to chocolate brown, and some are even sand-colored.

          Any deviation to the norm attracts collectors. Black is black, but brown has many nuances and a tropical Submariner, Explorer, Sea-Dweller, or Patrizzi Daytona stand out from the crowd, raising prices substantially on the secondary market or at auction. I recently visited Burlington Arcade in London and stopped by the impressive showcase that is David Silver’s boutique, The Vintage Watch Company. The main reason I stopped was the carefully curated collection of Rolex Sports watches from the 1950s–1980s, including a stunning 2024 wholesale replica Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 watches with the most impressive tropical dial I’ve ever seen. It turned out that the watch was a one-owner watch, complete with box and papers. When I asked David for the price, he quoted 90,000 GBP (approx. $110,000). This was well out of my budget, but how do you put a price on fascination?

          What had been a black dial when the watch was made in the early 1960s, had turned into a creamy light brown, which, to me at least, was the sexiest Submariner I had ever encountered. When I returned to David’s boutique a month later, the watch had been sold. When I inquired, David shared a picture of a certain Hollywood actor who must love tropical dials as much as I do, but is privileged with deeper pockets.

          Rolex Explorer II Freccione Fake Watches

          The Rolex Explorer II replica watches for men presented in 1971 is what one could describe as an oddball. Offering pretty much the same case as the GMT-Master of the time, this Explorer II does not have a rotating bezel and thus does not fit into the category of a pilot’s nor traveler’s watch. Instead, a big arrow hand indicates AM or PM via the fixed 24h-bezel. It doesn’t look like any other Rolex; not only because of the fixed 24-hour bezel, but also because of the unusual central hands.

          The target group for this watch was spelunkers, i.e., people who can’t see daylight because they’re in a cave and need to know if it’s day or night. There were a lot fewer professionals in this line of work compared to pilots, who would typically opt for the GMT-Master. This explains why the Explorer II, aka Freccione, was never in great demand and often sat unsold in shops.

          The Explorer II Freccione offers a complication that is mostly unnecessary. Moreover, it has a confusing dial layout as the minute indices don’t have the typical five-minute increments, but rather show the ones in between, which correspond to the stick hour indices on the fixed bezel. Confused? You should be. At least, I am every time I look at my own Freccione. Yet, the oddity is what is so appealing about this timepiece. It’s a Rolex, but it doesn’t look like a Rolex.

          Replica Rolex Milgauss 1019 Watches

          Another unconventional model is the Milgauss ref. 1019. This watch is considered offbeat because of its 38-mm case size, which is not shared with any other Rolex then or now. The Milgauss was introduced in the heyday of luxury Rolex fake watches made for professional use in 1956, and was updated in 1960 with the ref. 1019.

          Like the previous model, the Milgauss 1019 was anti-magnetic to 1,000 gauss – hence its name – and worn by CERN scientists and professionals who worked in environments subject to high magnetic fields. The ref. 1019 was offered with a silver or black dial and a larger case to fit the anti-magnetic Faraday cage, which sits between the case back and the automatic movement.

          Like the Explorer II Freccione described above, the best quality replica Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 watches also had atypical hands, making it stick out during its production run from 1960 to 1988. Again, this oddity makes the reference attractive in the eyes of modern-day collectors. There weren’t many copies sold, probably due to the unusual shape of the hands and case size. This scarcity, however, only adds to the collectability of the model today. That said, prices for the Milgauss ref. 1019 – like the Explorer II Freccione – have not gone through the roof.